It’s fall, and that means it’s time to get spring flowering bulbs planted. So I can enjoy blooms and pops of color from early spring all the way up to the start of summer, I use a broad array of bulb species and varieties. In this video, I demonstrate several ways to plant bulbs and what to keep in mind as you do.
Among the many types of bulbs I am planting are snowdrops, which will be the first to come up in spring, and alliums, which are in the same family as onions and garlic and will put on a fantastic show to end the season with big spherical purple flowers on top of long stems. Of course, I also have narcissus, daffodils and all the other bulbs you’d expect.
Timing
If you live in North America, fall is the general window of opportunity for planting spring-flowering bulbs. For those in the northern states down to the central states, the best time is between September and November. From the central states and further south, October to January is ideal.
I live in the Atlanta area of Georgia, in zone 7b. November is the perfect bulb planting time for here. A cool day with slightly moist soil is what I watch for.
Depth
Planting at the proper depth is especially important when it comes to bulbs. The general rule is to plant two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall. So if a bulb is 2 inches tall, dig a hole that is between 4 and 6 inches deep.
That same rule applies to the smallest of bulbs, including the tiny snowdrop bulbs that can be less than an inch tall.
The size of bulbs dictates how deep they should be planted. The general rule is to plant two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall.
Soil
If bulbs sit in soggy soil they will rot, so it’s important to amend soil that has poor drainage. Adding organic matter to soil will help heavy clay soil drain better and will also help quick-draining sandy soil retain moisture. You really can’t go wrong by adding organic matter, particularly finished compost.
My bulb planting bed has red clay soil, which is good for holding nutrients but slow to drain. The soil is in much better shape than it was before I started amending it because I continue to add organic matter each year. If you don’t have compost you can add shredded leaves — use whatever organic material that is readily available to you.
Spacing
Bulbs are pretty forgiving when it comes to spacing. The small bulbs will perform their best with about 2 to 4 inches of space between them, and the large bulbs like 4 to 6 inches. There are a few different spacing techniques you can try.
If you are going for a naturalistic look, you can just take your bulbs and toss them out onto your soil bed and plant them wherever they land. You can do this with a uniform batch of bulbs or a mix of different bulb varieties.
For an organized look, you can arrange the bulbs exactly where you want them and at the recommended spacing, with one bulb per hole.
If you are going for a succession of blooms, you may want to try option three, which is to share the planting holes. Dig one hole and layer in bulbs, small and large.
For a real burst of concentrated color, plant five to seven bulbs of the same variety closely together but in separate holes.
You can group bulbs together for dense, striking patches of colorful blooms.
Digging
The fastest and easiest way to make holes for planting bulbs is to use a bulb auger, which attaches to a power drill. You make sure your battery is fully charged — and it doesn’t hurt to have a backup battery.
Use the auger to dig to the depth the bulbs prefer, and once the bulbs are in place — root end down and pointed tip up — backfill the holes using the soil you just dug up.
A bulb auger makes quick work of creating holes for planting bulbs.
Final Steps
Now that your bulbs are planted and the holes are backfilled, it’s time for the finishing touches. I like to go over the area with a rake to make sure everything is covered up nicely. I’ll also add a layer of organic mulch to protect the bulbs from rapid temperature changes and to feed the soil, and then water it all in.
If you are worried about foraging critters — namely, squirrels — get a roll of chicken wire, lay it out over the planting area and pin it down. Squirrels love to dig around in freshly disturbed soil, but the chicken wire will stop them from reaching the bulbs.
Leave the chicken wire barrier down until the bulbs have had time to settle in and establish roots. If you forget to remove the chicken wire before the foliage comes up in spring, don’t worry. The foliage will grow right through it, no problem.
And that’s it! You are good to go, and you have a lot to look forward to come springtime.
After planting bulbs, tip side up, backfill the holes with the soil you just dug up.
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Links & Resources
Some product links in this guide are affiliate links. See full disclosure below.
Episode 224: Expert Advice on Planting Flowering Bulbs in Fall, with Brent Heath
Episode 248: Dahlia Growing & Breeding, with Kristine Albrecht
Episode 269: The Ultimate Guide to Flower Growing, With Jenny Rose Carey
Episode 274: Growing Cool-Season Annuals for Earlier Color and Hardier Plants
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joegardener Online Gardening Academy Perfect Soil Recipe Master Class: Learn how to create the perfect soil environment for thriving plants.
Earthbound Expeditions: Great Gardens of Italy & France with Joe Lamp’l
Disclosure: Some product links in this guide are affiliate links, which means we get a commission if you purchase. However, none of the prices of these resources have been increased to compensate us, and compensation is not an influencing factor on their inclusion here. The selection of all items featured in this post and podcast were based solely on merit and in no way influenced by any affiliate or financial incentive, or contractual relationship. At the time of this writing, Joe Lamp’l has professional relationships with the following companies who may have products included in this post and podcast: Rain Bird, Corona Tools, AeroGarden, Milorganite, Soil3, Greenhouse Megastore, PittMoss, Territorial Seed Company, Earth’s Ally, National Wildlife Federation and TerraThrive. These companies are either Brand Partners of joegardener.com and/or advertise on our website. However, we receive no additional compensation from the sales or promotion of their product through this guide. The inclusion of any products mentioned within this post is entirely independent and exclusive of any relationship.
