Tillers seem to be that go-to tool we’ve always used for what it was made to do – break up the earth. We till to clear a plot to start a garden, turn weeds under, or just mix up the soil. But is tilling really the best way to get your soil in shape? While it might be the easiest and fastest way to start, it’s not the best way. A no-till garden is where it’s at. If you love your soil, ditch the tiller!
To understand why no-till gardening is the best thing we can do to prepare and maintain an area for planting (and fewer weeds), we need first to understand the consequences of tilling.
The Problems with Tilling
Thousands of weed seeds are brought to the surface. Seeds that were buried and dormant due to a lack of sunlight are brought to the surface and exposed to the light of day. Ironically, we often till to turn under existing weeds. But in the process, we’re bringing up thousands more to take their place.
Soil integrity is destroyed. When tiller tines tear into the soil, they destroy nature’s infrastructure to a healthy soil food web. The undisturbed soil consists of a network of billions of beneficial organisms from bacteria and fungi, nematodes, arthropods and insects, and of course earthworms. Collectively they form a thriving, nutrient-rich, yet fragile ecosystem.
Properties that create soil drainage, moisture retention and aeration are eliminated. In a healthy (undisturbed) soil food web, material that helps soil particles bind together to improve aeration, water holding capacity, and drainage is created. Tilling destroys all of that.
Soil nutrients are lost. As the rapidly turning tines mix up soil like a blender, much of the stored carbon and nitrogen is quickly eliminated. The rapid introduction of oxygen sets off a process where sequestered carbon is lost and valuable nitrogen is consumed in the process. The post-tilled soil is far less nutrient rich than before.
Tilling brings thousands of dormant weed seeds to the surface where they quickly germinate once exposed to sunlight.
No-Till Gardening is the Soil-loving,
Weed-hater’s Alternative to Tilling
In a no-till garden, we still have the same objectives: a garden with fewer weeds, improved soil, and continued improvement.
But in a no-till scenario, nature does the soil prep for you. The key though is that it takes more time initially. Ideally, you want to plan ahead, at least by a season. That’s enough time to allow nature to prepare the top surface for planting. From then on it only gets better and better after that.
How to Prepare a New Plot
Using the No-till Method
- Smother the area designated for planting. This will kill the grass and weeds beneath and soften the area for planting later. Newspaper (5-10 sheets thick) is a common material used for the base smother level. However, if you choose this option, just be sure to come in behind it quickly with something to weigh it down. Compost, wood chips or even spraying it with water will help keep it from blowing away as you lay out this first course. As an alternative to newspaper, I prefer cardboard. It’s just as available and easier to work with. Plus, over time, it completely breaks down, and I think provides a better smothering base.
A layer of composted horse manure is added to the first layer of cardboard. The cardboard smothers the surface, while the manure and everything else will help the cardboard break down while creating a nutrient rich plot for planting next season.
- Add layers of organic material above the cardboard or paper. You want something that will break down rather quickly. Rotted leaves, aged manure, compost or straw are all good options. Ideally, a mix of several of these options is even better. While you could stop here, I add one more layer of shredded wood chips. It adds some bulk and weight and will ultimately break down to improve the soil even more.
Once all the organic material has been added to this no-till plot (manure, hay, wood chips/bark), I add a sprinkling of an organic nitrogen fertilizer for additional nutrients and to help the other material break down quicker.
- Add optional supplemental nutrients. I use an organic nitrogen source (Milorganite) to help all this material breakdown quicker while adding another nutrient source into the soil.
- Generously spray everything down with water. Consistent moisture will be key to steady decomposition, and there’s no reason to delay the process.
Once all organic material is in place, strive for at least a 6-inch mound above ground. In a matter of months, if you keep it moist, everything that you’ve added will break down and integrate into the soil. It will also serve as the first new, nutrient rich plantable layer. Then, simply pull away just enough material where you want to sow your seeds or plant your seedlings.
The beauty of the no-till gardening method is that unlike tilling, dormant weed seeds are covered deeper and deeper as you continue to add a new layer or two of organic matter every year. Ultimately, you have an incredibly spongy layer of soil rich in nutrients and beneficial organisms that are the perfect environment for roots to grow into and easily expand.
The added benefit of a mulch layer is that it helps protect the soil surface, drastically reducing the risk of soil erosion and runoff while improving water infiltration and moisture holding capacity.
As an alternative to traditional mulch options, I sometimes use cover crops, even in my raised beds. Living mulch is cut down at the end of the season where it dies in place to improve the soil by adding nutrients, organic matter and improves aeration and drainage.
In the off–season, as an alternative to mulch, you could plant cover crops as a living mulch layer. Also known as green manures, cover crops add nutrients to the soil and improve soil compaction, aeration, and drainage, while still protecting the surface.
In subsequent seasons, continue to add a generous layer of organic materials or cover crops as listed above, once or twice each year. I add a one-inch layer of compost just before planting my summer crops and again right before the fall plants or seeds go in the ground.
A key component to no-till gardening is to never compact the soil. The best way to do that is by creating designated pathways.
And one final yet very important point in creating the amazing soil that no-till gardens provide. Restrict foot and cart traffic to designated pathways only. One of the best benefits of no-till soil is the sponginess that is created over time for plant roots to grow and thrive. But that assumes that foot traffic or otherwise is never compacting it.
With a little patience and consistent additions of organic layers once or twice a year, no-till soil is unsurpassed for giving plants everything they need to thrive.
The true benefits and full potential of no-till soil won’t be realized until a couple of years into the process. But anything worth having is worth waiting for, and that is certainly the case for the type of soil that only gets better over time in a no-till soil environment.
Links & Resources
Episode 048: The Simple Science Behind Great Gardening, with Lee Reich
Episode 016: Composting Guide A to Z: The Quick and Dirty on Everything Compost
2 Responses to “No-Till Gardening: If You Love Your Soil, Ditch the Tiller”
I’ve been wanting to do this method for years but haven’t jumped off the wagon yet. I may just change to tall raised beds like you have and I won’t have to worry about it (as much!). I have a really bad problem of bindweeds and Canadian thistle.
I’ve been wanting to do this method for years but haven’t jumped off the wagon yet. I may just change to tall raised beds like you have and I won’t have to worry about it (as much!). I have a really bad problem of bindweeds and Canadian thistle.
The other problem which you did not mention is “wire worms” – which we have had in our garden for the past 3 years. I just ordered some beneficial nematodes to destroy them. I have been reading a lot of information about them over the past year. They prefer “just the right temperature” and will move up and down in your garden – in the cold winters (which we have in upstate NY) – they will go down a meter or more! When you till your garden, it provides a way for the wire worms to move up in the looser soil – it’s harder for them to move in compact soil.
Thanks for mentioning milorganite. I’m always telling people about milorganite, so many people do not know about it. It also is a good deer deterrent when you create a perimeter around your yard. It’s not a good idea to put it too close to your beds, they have to smell the milorganite before they can see the flowers and vegetables. I’d say to put the perimeter about 6 feet out at least.
You also have to be sure to get your wood chips from a reputable location – we got ours from a lumberyard one year and I will never do that again. Get cedar chips – nothing with coloring added.
The other problem which you did not mention is “wire worms” – which we have had in our garden for the past 3 years. I just ordered some beneficial nematodes to destroy them. I have been reading a lot of information about them over the past year. They prefer “just the right temperature” and will move up and down in your garden – in the cold winters (which we have in upstate NY) – they will go down a meter or more! When you till your garden, it provides a way for the wire worms to move up in the looser soil – it’s harder for them to move in compact soil.Thanks for mentioning milorganite. I’m always telling people about milorganite, so many people do not know about it. It also is a good deer deterrent when you create a perimeter around your yard. It’s not a good idea to put it too close to your beds, they have to smell the milorganite before they can see the flowers and vegetables. I’d say to put the perimeter about 6 feet out at least.You also have to be sure to get your wood chips from a reputable location – we got ours from a lumberyard one year and I will never do that again. Get cedar chips – nothing with coloring added.
I am planning a new vegetable garden this year, and would like to try the no till method. However, the plot of land is very near a creek and is therefore very rocky. What would you suggest for dealing with all of the rocks? Should I go in and hand pick the big rocks before covering the area with cardboard, or should I leave the rocks? Thank you!